Abstract

Pertti Nousiainen, Cellulose Fibres Conference 13-14 March 2024 Cologne, Germany

Key aspects of the down-stream conversion processes of fibers to products include mechanical, thermal, and chemical processing. Automation and robotics are gaining impact on textile and clothing production and facilitate textile production closer to customers and become more efficient and sustainable. Raw materials with their mechanical and chemical processing should not appear as a weak link in the chain and must fulfil sustainability requirements.

The increased use of cotton-like MMCF`s reduces the cleaning and fiber dimension controlling stages of the in a spinning factory and no alkaline pretreatments are needed. It is necessary that textile chemicals, such as dyes, finishing agents and auxiliaries are produced as biobased, and used efficiently for minimizing waste-water contamination. Coloration with more than 25000 possible industrial dye molecules involves a complex application of dyestuffs on textiles because of the variety of fibres, filaments, yarns, and fabrics. Textile and materials requiring coloration and the diverse nature of the end-use and performance requirements are setting multiple requirements. Coloration is mainly carried out in aqueous media may be carried out by dyeing the materials to a uniform colour, or by printing to impart a design or motif to textile. While biobased textile dyes offer several advantages, there are challenges to be solved related to colour fastness, scalability, and cost.

Instead of fabric aftertreatment, masterbatch and dope-additive technologies offer possibilities for MMF`s for producing functional textiles, such as flame retardant, conductive, bioactive, traceable and repellency-controlled textiles. However, the fiber recyclability effects of the additives should be considered.

The effect of PET textiles to release micro-particles in laundry processes demands preventive technologies to be developed. MMCFs will have a crucial role in the future by evolving along the entire supply chain to minimize the carbon footprint, marine pollution and leaving behind green footprint. Recycling of synthetic fibers and cotton from full-cotton and PET blends and using alternative cellulose sources for regenerated fibers is needed for reducing CO2 emissions and sustainable use of forests.

Forestbiofacts as a unique scientific digital platform content of 16 themes covers the whole up-to-dated value chain of forest-based bioeconomy, such as biomass technologies, natural fibre products, bio-based nanomaterials wood processing, paper and pulping technologies and man-made biobased cellulose fibres, as well.

The 4rd Cellulose Fibre Conference in Cologne: Cellulose MM-fibers growth estimated 13 mill. tons by 2030

Production of Man-Made cellulose fibers

The 4rd Cellulose Fibre Conference in Cologne was secondly organised during Covid19 restricted conditions. It didn´t limit the number of participation due to interesting program covering sustainability, recycling, and alternative feedstocks as well as latest development in pulp, cellulose fibres, and textiles. Some new technical application areas of non-woven, packaging and composites were discussed, as well. With increased production dominated by viscose, capacities of more than 7 million tonnes of cellulose fibre products are expanding in technical hygiene and textiles. Due to their possibilities to reach extra high tensile properties, alternatives for carbon fibres for light-weight applications are under development.

The textile industry is remaining a growth model despite of the current slowing of economics boosted by Russian-generated war in Europe. Additional fiber demand of 22 million tons is expected until 2025. The Fiber Year Consulting Group assumes that viscose, especially lyocell fibers will continue to outperform the market having potential demand of 4-5 million tons of new market by 2025. Growing awareness of need for sustainable clothing stimulates viscose fiber growth.

The estimation of Textil2Fashion is expecting that the MMCF market will grow from 7.2 million tons to 14.16 million tons within 9 years at CAGR of 7.8 per cent. Regenerated cellulose fibres possess beneficial characteristics from both synthetic and natural fibres. They have uniform mechanical and physical properties as synthetic fibres. Similarly, they are biodegradable, CO2 neutral, and have a low density as natural fibres.

According to Dr. Hassi from Scitech of Finland states that customers of fiber suppliers now have recycling, sustainability, and transparency at the top of both their strategic and operative agendas. The fashion value chain has transformed into active, networks with initiatives and development projects with objectives needed to meet the targets in time. Active players in MMCF industry can certainly strengthen their competitive position and their products can gain market share. Forest based MMCF’s existing integration with the global carbon cycle is to be better recognized to take full, justified benefit of their recyclability.

Raw materials of fibers

Key aspects of the down-stream conversion processes of fibers to products include mechanical, thermal, and chemical processing. Automation and robotics are gaining impact on textile and clothing production and facilitate textile production closer to customers and become more efficient and sustainable. Raw materials with their mechanical and chemical processing should not appear as a weak link in the chain and must fulfil sustainability requirements.

The increased use of cotton-like MMCF`s reduces the cleaning and fiber dimension controlling stages of the in a spinning factory and no alkaline pretreatments are needed. It is necessary that textile chemicals, such as dyes, finishing agents and auxiliaries are produced as biobased, and used efficiently for minimizing waste-water contamination.

Nonwovens produced by 4 main methods represent sustainable – capital intensive – chain for many technical and medical products with less dyes and finishes. Optimisation of the hybrid needlepunching with hydroentanling-process parameters is developed for many protective apparel applications. Usage of nonwovens in basic clothing is still a challenge.

Spin finishes

About 1 million tons of spin finishes are used in production and processing of man-made fibres (staple/filaments). Man-made fibres and many natural fibers are surface-treated by 0,1-1 % of a spin finish to improve bale opening and eliminate the build-up of static electric charges on fibres during bale opening and further processing. The finish may be conductive for charge dissipation and reducing the cohesion and friction in contact with ceramic or metallic machine parts. Typical emulsions may contain: C16-C18 acid EO`s, cationic derivatives (quats), mineral/vegetable oils and surfactants.